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What you can do
- Hillwalking / Easy scrambling (Spring -
Autumn)
- Winter-Hillwalking / Scrambling (Winter)
- Traditional Climbing (Spring - Autumn)
- Bouldering
- Ice Climbing (late Autumn - early Spring)
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Winter-Hillwalking
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What you can hardly do
- Skiing
- Ski-touring
- Cross-country skiing
because there is too few snow lying on the ground in the highlands in
winter. Not that it never snows - but due to the strong winds, the snow is
being blown away immediately.
What is 'Traditional' climbing?
In Britain there is a different kind of mountaineering than in the Alps.
The strong ethics forbid any use of bolts and pegs in the rock. There are
hardly any sport climbing areas - what you do there is called 'Trad
climbing' which means climbing using friends and nuts as your only
protection. This sounds awkward for Europeans, but I can confirm that it's
as funny and interesting - and enjoyable - as 'Plaisir' climbing!
However, Scotland is not Switzerland, and you can't expect the weather to
be warm and dry when you are climbing. On some rare days you climb without
T-shirt, but most of the time there is a wind blowing, and clouds on the
sky. So either you accept the weather, or you do without climbing... |
Traditional climbing on the Loudon Hill
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What you need
What you need to bring along is harness and rope, plus a complete 'rack':
A set of nuts (1-10) and some friends (1-3), for example. Don't forget the
quickdraws! For some climbs in quarries (such as Auchinstarry), micronuts
(0.25 - 0.75) are crucial. Take also enough slings and strings.
In the Glasgow Climbing Center Ibrox, it's forbidden to use the HMS for
belaying.
Ropes as well as other technical material can't be hired around Glasgow.
Perhaps you find some climbings shoes for hire.
The grading system
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The british rock climbing grade system contains of two numbers, the first
indicating the protectability and gravity of the climb, the second
indicating the technical difficulties. As in all climbing countries, some
areas are easier and some harder graded. If you do toproping, of course,
only the second number applies - although they are in a way linked. |
Climbing at Stanage, Peak
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| British |
UIAA |
French |
| V Diff |
4 |
4a |
| S 4a |
4+ |
4b |
| HS 4a |
4+ |
4b |
| HS 4b |
5- |
4c |
| VS 4b |
5 |
5a |
| VS 4c |
5+ |
5b |
| VS 5a |
6- |
5c |
| HVS 5a |
6 |
5c+ |
| HVS 5b |
6+ |
6a |
| E1 5b |
7- |
6a+ |
| E1 5c |
7 |
6b |
where V Diff = 'Very difficult', S = 'severe', HS = 'Hard
severe', VS = 'very severe', HVS = 'hard very severe'
Some climbing areas in Scotland and England
| Area |
Description |
Best routes |
Auchinstarry
30min from Glasgow |
This old quarry is between Kilsyth and
Croy, at a small lake.
The rock is a bit similar to granite, with
lots of cracks, but not much friction. Climbs start at the parking. |
Nijnsky (E4 6a)
(Toprope turns it enjoyable)
Red lead (VS) (Abseiling to the start just above the water surface) |
Loudon Hill
1h from Glasgow |
This natural rocky hill is located near
Loudon in the South of Glasgow, admidst sheep meadows. The rock is
comparable to gneiss, a bit mossy, with not too much protection. |
The Edge (VS) is a tremendous bold line
which takes a flake, not more than 10cm thick and standing vertical
out of the rock face. |
Dumbarton rock
30min from Glasgow |
This crack is easily reached by train
from Glasgow Queen street. It's just below the castle at Dumbarton
west of Glasgow. The dark rock has minimal friction.
Good for bouldering, but not for trad climbing. |
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Glen Croe
1h from Glasgow |
Very beautiful climbing on big
blocks,
near Arrochar, about 1 hr from Glasgow. The rough schist rock is
comparable to gneiss, has lots of holds, but few protection. |
Roadman Crack
(HVS 5a) is a steep and
marvelous line on the lower block.
Sideways slab (HVS 5a) is a short but delicate slabby climb. |
Polney Crag
1h30 from Glasgow |
This high crag is near Perth, about
1hr30 to drive. Again, it's good schist rock, a bit easier to
protect than Glen Croe. The routes are quite long (30m). |
Whiggle (VS 5a) is a long face
climb,
easy to protect and really enjoyable. |
Glen Coe -
Buachaille Etive Mor
2h from Glasgow |
Unlike the
others, this is more alpin climbing, usually multi-pitches. The rock is a kind of
granite, not
as beautiful as Urner Granit, but ok. What counts, is the great
ambiente of the Scottish highlands.
Be prepared for cold weather, take enough warm stuffs - and be
prepared to build the belays on your own! |
The Agag's Groove (V
Diff) is severe enough, 4 sustained pitches of not just trivial
climbing. |
Stanage -
Peak district
5h from Glasgow |
Britains most famous climbing area -
it's definitely worth to go there! In Switzerland, there isn't
anything comparable to that. Extremely rough and round rock, lots of
cracks and tons of slopers. Climbing is technical, the grading is
hard, the ambiente great. The only problem is that other people
think the same... |
There are almost too many good
routes,
for example The Great Flake (S 4a), Hargreaves' Original Route (VS
4c), or the Narrow Buttress (VS 4c)... |
For more information please ask me directly...
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