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Quitaraju from NE (Quitaraju-Alpamayo Col, 5400m)
Quitaraju 6036m
A broad peak located next to the
well-known Alpamayo. Nowadays, the most frequented route on Quitaraju is its
north face. However, the west ridge provides a great airy ridge ascent with
outstandig views. All other routes are very rarely climbed. The summit provides
excellent views onto Alpamayo and Santa Cruz.
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W ridge via
Quitaraju-Abasraju Col The
west ridge provides a great and long mountaineering adventure. The climb
is never really difficult, but due to its continued exposure, it requires
alertness and an adequate good physical condition of the climber. It is
comparable to alpine routes such as the Bluemlisalphorn traverse, with the
key passage being significantly more difficult. Of note is that the
easiest way down the mountain is by climbing down the west ridge.
Fast climbers can climb Quitaraju from the high camp by the west ridge and
descent on the same day to the base camp. Note:
Due to the climate changes, the difficulties can vary largely from year to
year. |
D-
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7-8h from the
Quitaraju-Alpamayo Col Camp at 5400m, 3-4h for the descent. |
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From the Col Camp, first head
towards Alpamayo to gain the lower glacier plateau, about 5300m. Now walk
to the Quitaraju-Abasraju Col, ca. 5500m, 1.5 hours from the col.
From the col, climb the ramp on the left that allows to gain a large
plateau above the first serac zone. The ramp climbs left of the rock wall
below large seracs. From the plateau, head towards the ridge. Bypass a
short wall right of an active serac zone. Avoid the left side since it is
exposed to ice fall. From here, several ways exist to gain the ridge. We
found it easiest to first go right, negotiating some crevasses, then climb
the 50° wall to the ridge directly. Allow 2.5 hours from the col to the
ridge.
The ridge is first broad and easy, but soon narrowes, thereby forming
large cornices. The south side is in general less steep, but will often
consist of deep unconsolidated snow. A short but steep section leads to
the key passage, notably the false summit. A good belay on ice screws can
be found at the root of the huge serac forming the false summit. A steep
traverse (5m 70°) diagonally to the left allows to gain the 55° north
side of the false summit. Climb the false summit in one long (60m) or two
short (30m) pitches. Belay is with snow stakes.
From the false summit, the knife-blade ridge leads horizontally on the
middle summit. This very exposed part of the ridge requires belays on snow
stakes and great alertness. From the middle summit, the ridge broadens.
The main summit is easily climbed on its north side. Allow at least 2
hours for the ridge.
Time: 7-8h from the col camp.
Descent: same. The key passage is negotiated by abseiling on snow stakes,
1x60m or 2x30m.
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1. The upper N slopes are up to 50° steep and allow
to gain the W-ridge.
2. Key passage and false summit.
3. Upper part of the west ridge.
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